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22-07-2013, 05:45 - Погоня за автобусом


Прошлой весной мне довелось отправить в путешествие по Китаю вместе с одним приятелем. Тут надо сразу уточнить, что попутчик мой в Китае (да и вообще в Азии) был впервые, и ни китайского языка, ни местных реалий не знал совсем ‒ так что мне досталась роль организатор, гида‒ а заодно и переводчика. Проведя пару дней в Гонконге, мы поехали в Яншо ‒ очаровательный городок по соседству с Гуйлинем (очарователен в любое время, кроме туристического сезона).
Из туристических форумов и путеводителей я знала, что проще всего добраться до Яншо автобусом на Гуйлинь, идущим из Шеньчженя. Что особенно приятно ‒ автовокзал находился рядом с вокзалом, куда приезжали поезда из центра Гонконга.
Туманным весенним вечером мы пересекли китайскую границу и вышли на большую площадь, с трёх сторон окружённую зданиями железнодорожного и авто-вокзала, и ‒ как всегда, в Китае ‒ заполненную народом. До отправления последнего автобуса на Гуйлинь оставалось не так много времени, и чтобы точно никуда не опоздать, я поймала первого попавшегося вокзального служителя и попросила помочь двум глупым белым людям сесть на автобус до Яншо. Улыбчивый дядя провёл нас к некоей странной кассе ‒ явно неофициальной ‒ где нам, тем не менее, продали билеты на нужный автобус. И попросили подождать минут десять. Ждать надо было в одном из вокзальных помещений, под пристальными взглядами китайцев, многие из которых явно впервые видели таких странных людей (надо сказать, что мы с моим приятелем представляли довольно колоритное зрелище: оба высокие ‒ 178 и 193 ‒ с очень светлой кожей, длинными кудрявыми волосами и горбатыми носами).
В тот момент, когда я покупала воду в соседнем ларьке, ‒ в кармане панически зазвонил мобильный: мой попутчик сообщал, что только что к нему подошёл какой-то китаец, пробормотал что-то ‒ кажется, “Яншо”..., подхватил его чемодан ‒ и сейчас они пересекают площадь. К счастью, характерная шевелюра и белая футболка моего приятеля была хорошо видна из далека ‒ так что вскоре я присоединилась к молчаливому, сосредоточенному китайцу, который тащил наши вещи через заполненную народом площадь. Мы пересекли стоянку, вышли на большой проспект... и через некоторые время к нам подъехал небольшой фургон. Наш провожатый, наконец, объяснил, что именно эта машинка должна доставить нас к автобусу в Яншо. Деваться нам было некуда ‒ деньги за билеты были уплачены, упущенный автобус мог сильно испортить все наши планы ‒ и мы сели в фургон. Минут через десять водитель фургона, заметив впереди большой автобус с табличкой “Гуйлинь”, помигал фарами ‒ автобус, замигав аварийными огнями, остановился прямо на шоссе ‒ и нас быстро перегрузили туда из фургона. Водитель нервно просил залезать подальше, не маячить у входа.
Мы прошли в самый конец ‒ где нас дружным гвалтом поприветствовала компания англичан, недавно приехавших из Индии (ребята были на середине кругосветного путешествия). Все они сели на этот автобус так же, как и мы.
Через 10 часов пусти сквозь густой туман мы приехали в Яншо. Было 5 часов утра. Я поймала местного таксиста на мотороллере с прицепом, который увёз нас куда-то в туман, в сторону гор и полей... но это уже совсем другая история.

Погоня за автобусом


Погоня за автобусом

Погоня за автобусом

Погоня за автобусом

Погоня за автобусом


Дарья Сухарчук
ЖЖ Дарьи Сухарчук


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